· Bangkok Old Town
Bangkok does not say hello quietly.
33 degrees, clouds, wet streets, cables overhead and the decision not to use the first day efficiently, but to actually notice it.
Moodhumid · politely overwhelmed · slowly arrived
Bangkok receives me with 33 degrees, clouds and that wet wall of air that immediately says: welcome, your European body is now only advisory. At the airport I change mode. I do not need to use the day efficiently. I want to use it well by actually noticing the city.
The ride towards Old Town is already enough of a programme. Then I walk through rush-hour streets: wet asphalt, red tail lights, tuk-tuk energy without a tuk-tuk, and cables overhead in quantities that make the mess under my PC desk look professionally managed. Every few metres there is an offer: massage, weed bar, tour, taxi, food, another massage. Bangkok does not ask if you are ready.
I am staying around Soi Rambuttri, right next to Khao San but a little more relaxed. Historically I have landed in Rattanakosin, Bangkok’s old royal island. The capital was founded here in 1782 under Rama I; the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, the river and small temples sit close together. Today they share the area with hostels, travel desks, Ayutthaya for 450 baht on chalkboards and plates of food arriving faster than my jet lag can think.
First food: Pad Thai, spicy enough to keep me awake. First impression of people: very polite, very calm, even while the city hums around them. Prices feel almost unfair after Europe. And at the same time everything is a little too much, exactly the right kind of too much. The next days are set up for adventure. For today, this is enough. Tiny jet lag, shower, sleep.
More photos from this chapter
First Pad Thai. Jet lag gets chilli as an opponent.
Soi Rambuttri, with power lines making their own ceiling.
Rush hour as a light show. Everything wet, everything moving.
Rattanakosin quietly reminds me that the city did not start here yesterday.
Rattanakosin at night: palace yellow, cannons and temple spires in one frame.
Smells, colours, prices: the real Bangkok menu often hangs right on the street.
Bangkok can also do luxury mall at full scale: Gucci, glass and towers by the river.
Bangkok from the river: towers, dark water and a city still glowing after the rain.
Bangkok street logic: scooters, cables, old facades and a green sign like a mission marker.
A postcard to Niko
A postcard about this chapter?
A thought, a question or just hello. It goes straight to me.
